Rikkoku Gomi: The Six Woods and Five Tastes of Japanese Incense
THE AROMATIC VOCABULARY OF KŌDŌ
In the world of Kōdō (the Japanese Way of Incense), the appreciation of fragrant woods is elevated to a high art form. Practitioners do not merely "smell" the incense; they "listen" to it (monkō), tuning their senses to its subtle whispers. To navigate this complex sensory landscape, a sophisticated classification system was developed in the 15th and 16th centuries known as Rikkoku Gomi (六国五味), or the "Six Countries and Five Tastes."
Just as a sommelier relies on a precise vocabulary to describe the notes of a fine wine, the incense master uses Rikkoku Gomi to identify and articulate the nuances of jinkō (agarwood or aloeswood). This system, established during the Muromachi period by figures such as Shino Soshin under the patronage of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, remains the foundation of incense appreciation today.
High-grade Agarwood, the treasured foundation of the incense ceremony. (Image: Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0)
THE FIVE TASTES (GOMI)
The "Five Tastes" (Gomi) provide the sensory vocabulary used to describe the aromatic profile of the wood. A single piece of agarwood rarely exhibits just one flavor; rather, it is the complex interplay of these tastes that gives each piece its unique character.
- Ama (Sweet): A rich, honey-like sweetness that is deeply comforting.
- Niga (Bitter): An elegant, medicinal bitterness, often compared to herbal tonics.
- Kara (Spicy): A sharp, warm pungency reminiscent of cloves or cinnamon.
- San (Sour): A bright, tart acidity, similar to plum or citrus.
- Kan (Salty): A subtle, earthy note, likened to the scent of ocean spray or the smell of a fire that removes sweat.
Traditional Japanese incense often blends various woods and spices to achieve a balanced profile. (Image: Wikimedia Commons, Public Domain)
THE SIX COUNTRIES (RIKKOKU)
The "Six Countries" (Rikkoku) refer to the geographical origins—or more accurately, the qualitative classifications—of the fragrant woods. While historically linked to specific ports or regions in Southeast Asia and India, today these terms are used primarily to describe the character and quality of the scent.
1. Kyara (伽羅): The highest and most revered grade. Originating primarily from Vietnam, Kyara is described as having a gentle, dignified aroma with an elegant touch of bitterness. It is often likened to a refined aristocrat or a court noble.
2. Rakoku (羅国): Historically associated with Siam (Thailand) or Laos. Its scent is sharp, pungent, and sometimes reminiscent of sandalwood. It possesses a bold, bitter quality, evoking the image of a strong warrior.
3. Manaban (真南蛮): A term referring to "southern barbarians," likely denoting the Malabar coast or regions traded by the Portuguese. It is predominantly sweet but coarse and unrefined, often compared to a sturdy peasant.
4. Manaka (真那賀): Originating from the port of Malacca in Malaysia. Its aroma is light, enticing, and changeable, described poetically as resembling the shifting moods of a woman with lingering feelings.
5. Sasora (佐曾羅): Possibly from the Assam region of India. It has a cool, sour profile that is sometimes mistaken for Kyara initially. Its light, fading quality is likened to the quiet presence of a monk.
6. Sumotara (寸聞多羅): Named after the island of Sumatra in Indonesia. It is sour at the beginning and end, and while it shares some traits with Kyara, it has an underlying coarseness—described as a peasant disguised in noble clothing.
A traditional incense burner, where the fragrant smoke carries centuries of history. (Image: Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0)
SUZU-YAKI AND THE INCENSE CEREMONY
The practice of Kōdō requires not only rare woods but also exquisite tools. The incense burner (kōro) is central to this experience. Suzu-yaki ceramics, with their unglazed, charcoal-grey surfaces, provide a stunning visual contrast to the delicate white ash and the tiny sliver of precious wood.
The wabi-sabi aesthetic of Suzu-yaki—its quiet, unassuming presence—perfectly complements the introspective nature of listening to incense. When you hold a Suzu-yaki incense burner, you are holding a vessel that grounds the ethereal fragrance in the earth, connecting the deep history of the Noto Peninsula with the ancient trade routes of Southeast Asia.
